Nomos’s Update series was born when the Glashütte, Germany-based watchmaker outfitted three of its flagship models — the Tangente, Ludwig, and Orion — with new, self-winding calibers with integrated date functions, replacing the manually wound movements of their predecessors. This fall, Nomos grows the series with the addition of two colorful new dial options in the Orion neomatik family: one in midnight blue, the other in olive green.
Like the original, white-silvered-dial version of the Orion neomatik 41 date (“neomatik” describes watches with an automatic movement, “41” refers to the case diameter, and “date,” to the model’s signature small complication), the new watches have stainless steel cases with a notably slender profile — just 9.4 mm thick — and a dial with simple stamped indices, rhodium-plated (on the midnight blue dial) or gold-plated (on the olive green dial) hands, small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and date window at 3 o’clock.
Inside both watches is the Nomos Caliber DUW 6101, the micromechanical foundation upon which the “Update” series is built. Its use in the Orion models is especially noteworthy because the Orion, Nomos’s first family of watches that goes back to the company’s founding in 1992, was long known for housing solely manual-winding movements due to its thinness. Caliber DUW 6101 (the initials stand for “Deutsche Uhren Werk”) measures 35.2 millimeters in diameter but at only 3.6 millimeters in height is extraordinarily thin, and thus a perfect fit for the Orion case. Like the neomatik movements that preceded it in production, it incorporates the Nomos swing system, with the hallmark tempered blue balance spring, and Nomos’s in-house-developed DUW regulation system.
Visible through a clear sapphire caseback, the movement features the three-quarter mainplate used in traditional Glashütte watchmaking, enhanced with Glashütte ribbing (the German equivalent of the Swiss côtes de Genève), tempered blue screws, and packing a 42-hour power reserve. Both new Orion neomatik models are mounted on remborded, black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather straps and fasten to the wrist with simple steel pin buckles. These colorful new Orion watches arrive at retailers in October 2018 and can also be ordered online at www.nomos-glashuette.com.