In its third annual edition, WatchTime New York, America’s Luxury Watch Show, which takes place next weekend in Midtown Manhattan, welcomes an array of independent watchmakers in addition to major luxury brands. One of these indie stars, Scotland’s Fiona Krüger, is making her first appearance at the event, and offers guests the opportunity to go up close and hands-on with the new Chaos Collection Entropy I, a timepiece that features her eponymous brand’s first proprietary caliber.
Krüger — a designer with a fine-arts background who moved to Switzerland to complete her Masters in product design, fell in love with horology, and launched Fiona Krüger timepieces in 2013 — conceived the Chaos caliber as a visual representation of the phenomenon of entropy. As described in physics, entropy “dictates that as time passes things always move from a state of order toward a state of disorder or chaos,” in Krüger’s words. Thus her conception of the movement as being rendered in mid-explosion — with a stretched-out gear train, an “erupting” balance wheel, shattered-look hour and minute wheels pushed off-center, and Pop Art-style cracks and bursts in the mainplate that allow the wearer to peer at all these elements. This bespoke movement — designed by Krüger in cooperation with the movement-making experts at Aghenor, whose previous collaborations have wrought such notable pieces as Van Cleef & Arpels’ Midnight Heure GMT watch and Hermès’ Slim d’Hermès Perpetual Calendar — uses a special production process, involving laser technology and galvanic coloring, to achieve the graphic look of the bridges and mainplate. Its manually wound mainspring barrel carries a power reserve of 50 hours.
The distinctly shaped, three-part tonneau case of the Entropy I measures 48 x 40 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm thick and is constructed of titanium with alternating brushed and polished finishes and colored PVD for the inner ring. Three versions are offered, each limited to only 18 pieces each: Purple Pow (the model pictured) and Black Bang feature inner rings with black DLC, while Cobalt Crash uses blue PVD for the inner ring. Adding to the explosive effect on the front of the watch are the shard-like metallic hour markers which are applied not to the dial but to the inner surface of the sapphire crystal. These jagged, polished indices hover over the partially openworked dial, with similarly sharp-edged hands — white lacquered for the hours, skeletonized with lacquered details for the minutes — sweeping over cutouts that reveal colorful “explosions” made of silicon, framed by the polished base plate. The only traditionally symmetrical element of the off-beat design is the crown, positioned unconventionally at 12 o’clock.
All three new Entropy I models from Fiona Krüger Chaos Collection — as well as Kruger herself, on hand to present them and other models in her young, iconoclastic brand — will be at WatchTime New York 2018, taking place on October 26-27 at Manhattan’s Gotham Hall. Have you ordered your tickets now? Act now to secure your spot at the East Coast’s biggest and most important watch collector event!